We finally found it: Yesterday we saw the biggest, longest, most perfect makeable barrels we've ever seen in our 50+ combined years of wave hunting. Trysto and I couldn't believe our eyes - we never imagined that there were waves like this in our backyard. Despite the wave being hundreds of metres away, the quality was painfully obvious - there was no hesitation to give it a crack.
The reality: Those perfect pitching tubes waves we saw from afar - yes they are (astonishingly) real up close. However, we won’t be catching any of them today. Someone hanging off the back of a jet ski is taking off 100m+ further out and lining up that barrel section with ease. Why would you bother struggling to keep your position against the raging current, paddling like a madman putting yourself in the perfect spot, negotiating the critical bumpy drop, digging your rail into the face and pumping with all your might? Just casually stand there and wait for the oncoming section to throw out - you are perfectly slotted. If you blow it, no worries - your driver will grab you and whisk you back up top in no time for another go. The few mere mortals without this assistance face a thumping down the bank followed by a slow grueling paddle against the current. There's 15 ski's sitting out there so absolutely zero chance of a set wave going unridden.
The grind: Firstly, how the hell do we get out there? It's a long paddle over deep, churned up and sharky water. There are no landmarks to gauge your position in the lineup. There are a handful of paddle surfers out which help us understand where to sit. We have to scrap around right on the bank with them to grab the smaller (and faster/more sectioned) unridden waves, whilst being on high alert to dodge the larger (taken) set waves. If you manage to snag one and make the drop you also must then negotiate the wake from the skis which create moguls on the wave face. There are some serious threats made by the ski jockeys if you dare drop in on a tow surfer.
To get back to the car it's an exhausting paddle into the beach, another paddle across the river, and a scramble up razor sharp oyster covered rocks. It's a mighty tease of a session - we each raced a few smaller ones but could only watch on while the tow surfers nabbed barrel after barrel. By the end of the surf we’re worn out and bloodied.
The NSW law is cut and dried:
Tow-in surfing is only permitted on open waters at surf breaks only where there are no other surfboard riders present.
Skis need to maintain a minimum distance of 60 metres from people in the water, and 200 metres from vessels and people in the water when tow-in surfing.
Mindset: If you are tow surfing when there are paddle surfers present, let’s call it what it is – cheating.
When you play chess do you use an engine to give you the best moves? Do you cut the line at the supermarket? Wouldn't it be convenient if they put a chair lift up to Mt Everest - the hikers will need to make way for it, but it's only a small inconvenience. Some things need to be kept sacred.
The 4 levels of jet ski asshole-ism:
Using a ski to access the wave. Launch your ski from the nearest boat ramp, drive you and your crew out there, and anchor the ski in the channel for the entire session. This is understandable for spots requiring a long paddle. It can add a level of safety for all surfers at the break. It doesn't interfere with anyone else's surfing experience. If you want to pay $20k to save some paddling I don't have any huge problems with this.
Using a ski to ferry your teammates back out after their wave. This is where I start to have an issue. If you are going to do this, you need to be offering every single surfer in the lineup a ride back out to the top of the wave (this rarely occurred yesterday).
Using a ski to tow your teammates onto the wave. The tow surfers can take whatever wave they want, don't need to spend energy paddling, and can surf the wave in a risk-free manner, taking off deeper than a paddler would dare. There is no huge consequence for blowing the wave.
Using a ski as a platform to take photos of your teammates (whom you have just towed into the wave) and immediately post your wins on social media for internet points (as was demonstrated by one well known surfer/shaper on this very day).
Endgame: I can only see a few possible endings to this tension -
The top-down solution - An inevitable jet ski related fatality will lead to a tightening up of the enforcement of the above laws. There is increased reporting and monitoring of jet ski behaviour and heavy/serious punishment for anyone breaking the maritime laws. For the rich, the $500 fine for breaching tow in rules is just a small fee split between the rest of the crew, they can take any wave they choose for the day. It seems impossible to thoroughly enforce these laws but a few licence suspensions and/or jet ski confiscations might make riders think twice.
The bottom-up solution - Public shaming of inappropriate tow surfing examples, paddlers treat tow surfers with pure disdain. Feel free to indiscriminately drop in on anyone who tows into a wave, they must give way. Completely ignore the threats of ski jockeys. This will obviously incite conflict, damaged boards, and violence. Who is putting up their hand to begin the fun?!
Everyone buys a ski ("if you can't beat 'em join 'em") - Paddle surfers are outcompeted and disappear. Crowds are more intense than ever. Tow crews fight for waves amongst themselves, likely causing more violence, injuries, and bad vibes.
Of course, none of these options are ideal - who wants more rules and police in our life? We need to come to some kind of truce so that all ocean-goers can enjoy it and be safe. Jet skis can be an incredible tool to assist and enhance the surfing experience in appropriate situations, but it’s clear they shouldn’t mix with paddle surfers.
Philosophy: The harder your work for something the more you appreciate it. Everything meaningful in my life has been created through difficult, uncomfortable, and persistent work - you can't buy or shortcut that. I have no doubt Trysto and I will remember the waves we caught (and saw) yesterday for the rest of our lives - precisely because they were so rare and hard-won.